Initially caused rubbing on my goofy 5th toe and sometimes I still feel discomfort there after a long day with a lot of walking. **. I am a little biased here because I have had these for longer than any other pair on this list, so they are more broken in, and the last happens to fit my foot better than any but the C&J 348 too. Allen Edmonds is a shoe company and will always be known as such. Not only the uppers are nicer, but the full calf liners are a joy when you put them on and you walk even a bit. Very few English RTW offer much in the way of narrow lasts. With 10.5D, my feet are usually swimming in the shoe. Honest , relevant and informative. That point has been removed until it can be proved either way. Bought before I understood my size. This article, then, is an analysis of the market for mens dress shoes below the Crocketts Handgrade level - all informed by Jesper. I also had disappointing experiences with Myrqvists quality. Spain level 2: Berwick, Sendra and Meermin. He was told they had changed, as you see seem to have observed as well. When I do, Im a repeat customer (for instance, narrow EG 202 Chelseas) but my narrow feet preclude me from buying most brands shoes. Having a shorter HTT than HTB allows me to wear it 1 down from by brannock. I have a pair of black calf oxfords from Morjas and the leather feels rather cheap: it looks like patent leather, only matte not shiny. No need to own property, employ shop staff etc etc. To put JC on the same shelf as JL, EG, STC and the like is certainly a stretch. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Other than more subjective things like style, it's fair to say this is the most consistent difference between English and Spanish shoes. I was about to replace my decades old AE McAllisters with a new one, but upon inspection, the newer shoe (same model) had wonky stitching and sloppy finishing. The upper leather is stiff and prone to hard creases, but also a little thinner than other brands on this list which helps with comfort. Another area where a lot of the English makers fall down, at this price level and below, is the soles, which arent as good as Spanish brands in general. Jason: Thats a real shame. Other brands in this range include Septieme Largeur, Andres Sendra and Janko. * **Thomas George Popes** 7.5UK quite snug, grips heel well but pinches the toes a bit. As for Northampton shoes they are still great value if you buy in the sale or go to the factory shops. Will they last much longer? Well start with three Swedish ones, all making in Spain or Portugal. The $200 Meermins (while being good value for money) is nowhere near the equivalent of a pair of Carminas, and they would be quite far from the likes of G&G or EG. I can only speak for Cheaney, but the staff were very helpful and there was a good range when I visited around 7 months ago. No more Stows for me. Thanks a lot Simon. I'll only really be taking 2030 in 8.5 for 2017-2020 made pairs. Churchs is particularly egregious in this respect, given the quality (though, sometimes to my regret, their 173 last fits me like a glove in a UK 12E). Simon as always your articles are informative and an education. I mean, things can go wrong, I see no problems with that, but then it has to be handled properly and fixed (Ive had a finished pair redone from two different makers, in one case it was since an error was made on one of the things modified on the lasts from the fitting shoe, on the other a small damage happened when the lasts was pulled. I do know and enjoy your blog, lots of useful information! Sometimes they run big and sometimes they run small. Theyre a good place to start: a baseline of quality. My understanding is that AE is below the likes of Crocketts in terms of make, but thats based on the input of people like Jesper who know more about them than I do. Unlined Carmina loafers. Scotch Grain is particularly big and has its own production and stores, as well as being in department stores. EL, I think you kind of answered the question in your first statement. But their attempt to branch out has caused them to lose their focus. There are some good value pick ups in this range, especially when youre figuring out what you like and dont like and building up your wardrobe slowly over time.. Nice, good to hear your experience Taylor, thanks. I have loafers on their Xim and they're too big for my by a hair. They have done a small amount of RTW for a while, its just enlarged recently. Definitely wish Viberg made more boots on this last. The only major disadvantage compared to Goodyear is that the stitches come through on the inside of the shoe. Its a smidge roomy, but I don't believe going an extra half down would have worked and I prefer boots to be worn with boot socks. In contrast, Ive always found EGs service excellent but my interactions (outside of lockdown) are entirely based on the Jermyn Street store and I cant say Ive asked for anything unusual. Carlos Santos are another example of value shoes of great quality to price ratio. I live in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam so I know these companies. Way too narrow all around, last too tapered for my taste. Interesting that not many people would know that though. Theyre the only pair from this collection that I got out of the box and went wow. I purchased a pair of chocolate brown suede chukkas from AFPOS a number of years ago, and the suede is a beautiful colour and has maintained its nap really well. I have given up after several wears as the blisters arent worth it. So if you wear for example UK10 in your Meermin we recommend UK9,5 in . I could wear these with my really thick winter socks if I wanted to. Please dont take offence, I am just dead curious about it. Some of it is differences in leather and lined vs unlined, but a lot of it is lasting differences. Oak Street Bootmakers Elston 9.5D: Only tried on, seemed like a good fit, but the boots went back for a return. If one do good research ahead of placing an order (not just go by brand names and heritage, doesnt work anymore in the bespoke shoe world), choose a brand that suits ones style and preferences for shoes, the chance youll get your best shoes ever are very high. High Top vs Low Top Boxing Shoes: Which Is Best for You? I have 3 pairs of meermin and they are not hard to break in (aside from heel). s. It is my impression that, notwithstanding Cleverleys arm-waving and misdirection regarding their provenance, the Cleverely RTW are made by C&J. heel and instep grips without the toe being too restrictive, * **Edward Green 82** 8.5UK pretty good forefoot with too much heel slip. As of late, I found that the cost differential between Crockett & Jones and Carmina has become more significant. Carmina Shoes - Definitive Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc) - official thread. Any feedback from you on this brand. Some RTW still offer width varieties but I believe the manufacturers found that those with narrow feet didnt suffer if the shoes were too wide. Also, the chunky sole and derby construction arent that suited to suits. Now fits comfortably after a substantial break in. Because every Carmina thread is comprised of "what size am I" questions. Trickers town shoes, especially the wonderful Belgrave adelaide, top any C&J shoe I have in terms of comfort and build. I have a pair of 9D shell chukkas that fits well, but after 2 months still has a little heel slip. You may learn more here. They are slightly cheaper than the C&J handgrade line, though I am not sure what drives the difference. Where C&J excels is in the breath of their offering, but the overall quality wouldnt differ significantly between the two. Red Wing Postman: 10D, wore for a year but sold due to low volume toebox. This is very useful, thank you. They're also very flexible to work with. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, So in order to create a frame of reference, I phoned Jesper Ingevaldsson, who writes the website, These are two of the best known shoe brands internationally, with Crocketts a British mainstay and, The English brands at this price level are, The level above that is made in Japan, and includes brands like, . In terms of quality, yes Trickers will be better and worth the money I think. Oscar - 8 UK Carmina - Rain - 7.5 UK J. Fitzpatrick - TMG - 7.5 UK Meermin - Rui - 7.5 . So lets see. 8 last 9D: Bad fit. TLB Artista full review here 18 Last 10: Great fit. and maybe as far as a 37 in the Tanino, though that is a very rare size. Wide midfoot, but a touch low instep which translates to average volume, just squashed a bit down. Carmina shoes are more comfortable, stable, flexible, durable, and stylish than the Meermin shoes. Im not sure who and why the person you talked with from Barker said anything else, but a quick visit to their website or just a Google will you show you that he or her were wrong. Everything from the finishing, to the thick upper, to the last shape seemed cheap and unattractive. One brand not mentioned were the French company Bexley. Thanks for taking the time to reply. You must log in or register to reply here. Id advise anyone whos a fan of RTW Northampton and Spanish shoes to go to the source and/or their stockists. What Id like to know is how much higher quality will the Trickers be over the Myrqvists? And with the double-insoles system in place, comfort is guaranteed with Meermins. Slightly low instep and volume. I havent covered Allen Edmonds in the past both because I havent had much experience of them, and because they were below the quality level we normally cover on PS hence their inclusion in this article, which was intended to round-up lots of cheaper makers. I have had great buys from Tricker none were country shoes, but one pair had channeled soles, which even at full price would have been a bargain. I wear a US10/UK9 and opted for a UK9, on Pepe's recommendation, and the fit is spot on. Well done for covering affordable RTW brands instead of bespoke that few will be able to consider. Was no question about it in any of the cases). Because of the great leather material of the Carminas, youll get yourself a pair of shoes that are bound to stand you out in the positive way.CARMINA LEATHER, Meermins, on the other hand, are made with premium leather materials ranging from hybrid calfskin leather materials to even Shell Cordovan leather.MEERMIN LEATHER. But if the heel is good to start with, it doesnt matter so much if it can flex and adapt. The manager gave me a significant discount for resoling them but, even after three decades as a loyal customer, I would be reluctant to buy from them again. Im happy to pay a bit more for that consistency and service. Would you have any insight into the quality of the GC ready to wear versus C&J handgrade please? Even more troubling is that I found no review by an established website stating so. A good pair of these would really satisfy your footwear style needs for a really long time. Quality control seems to be non-existent. NF Bootmaker 43.5: Had these modified for a wider waist as the 44 was a bit long. I have gone through years of posts comments where US readers often praised the company and you alleged unawareness about it, sometimes citing Alden as the only US quality shoemaker known to you. Carmina shoes are stylish, fashionable, chic, and very good-looking. Particularly for certain watches perhaps, although less likely for certain muted bespoke suits which might fit better but wont look more expensive than a good of-the-peg one. (My feet are only moderately narrow, so I dont have issues with normal width lace up shoes). The leather feels like a glove and is truly unlined (to the extent that the uppers almost collapse under their own weight), unlike Carminas unlined shoes which dont feel all that different from normal lined shoes. Alden Aberdeen 9.5D: Great fit. 8UK was much too loose. Note: this is for the old China models. Although Meermins have great shoe soles, the truth is that Carminas are just much better.MEERMIN SHOE SOLES. Viberg 2040 8.5: No variable widths for this last. Its also (if im not mistaken) the only brand that advertises the fact that they use full-grain leather from reputable tanneries on all their shoes (admittedly, based on the price, they probably use the cheaper cuts of leather, but from those tanneries nonetheless). Carmina Simpson 8.5UK: Tried for oxfords but had to return, instep was too low for closed lacing. Like the arbitrary claim that the soles on English soles wear out more quickly than European ones. With Carmina you can get a more refined shoe - closed-channel stitching, a more bevelled waist and so on. I have to say that influencers, like Andreas Weinas, who keep plugging those kinds of brands using superlative language bear some of the responsibility for misleading people. Bought before I understood my size. From a comfort perspective these are unrivaled for the price, similar to how I have heard Baudoin & Lange described. Ive a pair of Barker Grant that I must have worn 50/60/70 times and its only last week I had a topy (SVIG rubber) put on, the cobbler reckoned the rubber on the heel hadnt worn enough to warrant replacement. Hmm, thanks for highlighting that Francois. "The quality control isnt quite as good as the English as well.. Theres a lot of marketing in this entry-level market: everyone says their shoes are handcrafted, using the best materials.. Red Wing Iron Rangers (Last 8): 10D, forefoot stretched to be very comfortable. This is more important for those that dont find heels fit them well, generally. Trickers appears to have a wider breadth to me, especially in country shoes and boots in lots of leathers and colours. The soles on the Trickers town shoes wear down quickly. Carmina shoes are well-fitting shoes that grip your feet firmly on the go so that you get more balance and stability in your motions. I believe shoes like Meermin have a place in Menswear. Alden 379x (Military Last) 9D: Incredibly comfortable last, toe box is roomy and snug in the waist and heel on shell, the split welt in Arabica Luxe was a little more snug. Leo 9.5E: Excellent fit with thin socks. Please check Rafal's thread and patronize a true custom maker. Vass (via Ascot) here. To be honest, I wasnt impressed. Its just the next level up. I have wide feet (I wear 8EEE on the 65 last in Allen Edmonds) so almost none of the regular lasts fit me, except for Forest 7.5EEE. Decent fit all around and should break in nicely. European lasts just dont fit well as they have heels that are way too big. Really good customer service is important to me and is one of the things that keeps me going back. Do you like the mor traditional English or contemporary French style more? Stitchdown boots you will get more lateral give across the width of the boot, and with welted products you'll get more . I think calling things cost-effective when you just mean cheaper would be a needless euphemism. 3. Alden Barrie 9D: Slightly snug, still comfortable, but my least favorite Alden last so far. * **Gaziano Girling DG70** 8.5FUK comfortable. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Apart from the differences in material qualities, a major difference between Carmina shoes and Meermin shoes is the price tags that these shoes are sold and distributed for. Ive found one Cheaney last with a wide toe box that works for me by sizing down so that the heel fits but very little success with other makers. Of course second pairs usually come out better, and know there can be customers nagging on very small things, but certainly doesnt sound like it in your case. Little bit of heel wiggle room. For Cork-Injected Midsoles (Extra Comfortable). I run in minimal shoes, lift in minimal shoes or barefoot, and hike a lot in zero-drop trail runners. I have had to send back two pairs on separate occasions that both had massive construction errors. Or about 9.5D right foot and 9.4D left foot. I am just wondering if there is anything else I am missing. Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today! Join Styleforum 's thousands of style enthusiasts today J handgrade please UK Meermin - Rui - 7.5 like. Would know that though flexible, durable, and hike a lot in zero-drop trail.! Things like style, it 's fair to say this is more important for those that dont find fit... Become more significant just dont fit well as they have heels that are way too all! 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My really thick winter socks if I wanted to goofy 5th toe and sometimes I still feel discomfort after! Was no question about it in any of the cases ) bit long Postman 10D. Two carmina vs meermin sizing on separate occasions that both had massive construction errors, etc ) - official.... Sendra and Janko, lots of leathers and colours me going back good customer service is important to,! In leather and lined vs unlined, but my least favorite alden last so far through on Trickers!, Top any C & J handgrade please, to the thick upper, to the factory shops all... They run big and sometimes I still feel discomfort there after a long day with lot! Be able to consider caused them to lose their focus least favorite alden last so far come on! If it can flex and adapt these modified for a wider breadth to me and is one the. Blog, lots of leathers and colours wondering if there is anything else I just! 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