THE ALPINE BUTTERFLY KNOT, also known simply as the Butterfly Knot due to theform it takes while tying, forms a secure loop in the middle of a rope. AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the information presented in this blog. A good example is when a line of hikers wish to hook on along the length of a shared rope. Available in Cabana Striped Beige, Rosé, and … Afterwards I could not untie the knot without pliers and prying screwdrivers etc. American Alpine Institutewww.alpineinstitute.com800-424-2249360-671-15051515 12th StBellingham, WA 98225, The Equipment Shopat theAmerican Alpine Institute360-671-1570, Winter Courses and ExpeditionsNow Taking Reservations, Rock Climb Red Rocks - Las Vegas, NevadaRock Climb Joshua Tree - CaliforniaEcuador Volcanoes Skills ExpeditionClimb AconcaguaBackcountry Skiing - WashingtonBackcountry Skiing - ColoradoBackcountry Skiing - SierraWinter Mountaineering - SierraIce Climb Ouray - ColoradoIce Climb Lee Vining - SierraAvalanche Education - Washington, Summer Courses ExpeditionsNow Taking Reservations, Denali / Mt. The one of top should be larger than the other. For example, mountain climbers looking for a way of securing their carabiners to their climbing harnesses would use this knot. The alpine butterfly is known by a number of names: the butterfly knot, the lineman's loop, the alpine middleman's knot, or the lineman's rider. The Alpine Butterfly Loop is structured as two interlocking Overhand Knots. The use of the butterfly to tie off a section of damaged rope is questionable at best. Our system for rappelling with the two ropes is to use a knot block (see attached picture), rappel off a single strand, and retrieve the ropes using the tagline. When you undertake an outdoor, backcountry, or an alpine adventure without a guide, you assume total responsibility for your decisions and wellbeing. 3 4 Stability ​The Chain Sinnet Knot is not used as a securing or tensioning knot … World-wide ascents, expeditions, and mountaineering instruction. To provide a second loop near the end of the rope for two-point anchors. Use it anytime you're significantly weighting a rope (like fixing ropes for a big wall, or tying off one end of rope for snow anchor testing or crevasse rescue practice.) Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming a UKC Supporter, or UKC Supporter Plus which Found insideEssential rope-and-string tying advice for the nerdily inclined. Includes two lengths of rope to help you practice tying knots. Attention all nerds, put down that laptop and pick up this brilliant guide to tying 50 must-know knots. Start this knot by forming a bight in the mid-section. Life On A Line was the first specialist rope rescue book written for and by cave and mine rescuers, and has become the standard text for hundreds of rescue teams. Also found in this edition: • Over 10,000 more words and 125 more photos • Three never-before-published techniques: Adjustable Hitch, High Friction Tubes, and Bight Method • Detailed technical updates throughout • New distinction ... I see that the AMGA SPI manual is discussing the directional figure 8 rather than the alpine butterfly. All rights reserved. With chapters on the different knots ordered by their uses, including climbing, camping, hiking, nautical and fishing, plus a handy glossary of terms and techniques, this book is an essential guide for everyone who likes to spend time ... Conditions in the mountains are constantly changing, and no guidebook or computer web blog can take the place of solid training and experience. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. A reprint of the first Boy Scouts handbook from 1911 covers woodcraft, camping, signs and signaling, first aid, chivalry, and games. Alpine Butterfly Loop (ABOK #331, #532, #1053): You can also use this to form a secure loop in the middle of the knot. Because few climbers carry fancy (and expensive) search and rescue gear, all skills taught in this book use the items typically found on a climbing rack: rope, carabiners, slings, and cord. Backup Knot. The most common view of the Butterfly Knot. Bowline On A Bight. THE CLIFFS AND MOUNTAINS WE LOVE CAN BE UNFORGIVING. READ ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING TO LEARN FROM THE MISTAKES OF OTHERS, SO YOU CAN CLIMB AGAIN TOMORROW. - Forming a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Uses: The Alpine Butterfly Loop is useful anytime a secure loop is required in the middle of a rope. Tying it: There are several methods for tying the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop. Posts in all Forums, Free This article is intended to provide general information. Found insideOffering techniques and best-practice methods from experienced industry experts, this book allows readers to create a foundation on which to build a successful and resourceful career behind the scenes in theatre production. What makes it interesting is the triangular shaped design below the loop. As far as I can tell the directional figure 8 is an inferior knot to the alpine butterfly mainly because it is unidirectional and will invert/roll if loaded on the wrong side whereas the alpine butterfly is a bidirectional knot. The author offers instrucitons for tying 19 fundamental climbing knots and 16 additional variations and using these knots safely and effectively. Each knot is illustrated and its primary and secondary uses are described. > Can anyone tell me some uses of the alpine butterfly knot. I need to try another knot. Stickers. The most common uses of the Alpine Butterfly Loop Knot are found in rock climbing practices. The Alpine Butterfly Knot forms a secure loop in the middle of a rope. Serena Top. I've always liked using it to secure myself when I've topped out and am belaying the person seconding. With easy step-by-step instructions, overviews of knots' histories, and a full glossary, this book is a fantastic reference for scouts and leaders, emergency preppers, outdoor enthusiasts, or anyone looking to build on the basics or expand ... This book is a Boardman-Tasker Prize winner, which is recognition given for outstanding mountaineering literature. From the judges' remarks: “The book is very cleverly structured. If you’re familiar with the sheepshank (which isn’t used much nowadays) you’ll see echoes of it in the Alpine Butterfly. Some differences include replacing the Figure 8 with a Bowline On A Bight Knot, or an Alpine Butterfly Knot. The Butterfly Knot forms a loop in the middle of a rope and is especially useful for the middle member of a rope team because it won’t deform after a pull in either direction. The butterfly loop, also known as lineman's loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman's rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Alpine butterfly.jpg 1,050 × 1,024; 464 KB. Use. The alpine butterfly loop (lineman’s loop) is a useful knot for creating a … Set sail to paradise in the Serena top featuring a self-tie on the back and two self-tie bows on the shoulders. Then create 2 loops by twisting it twice. Excellence in guiding since 1975. It is also easier to untie. Simply put, the alpine butterfly knot is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. It is tied in the bight, which means that it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a large advantage when working with the long ropes commonly used when camping with horses and mules. Bring the top loop down over the bottom loop, folding it at the junction between the two loops. Alpine Butterfly Loop. The hardcover book also comes with a set of John's coveted 1,000,000-copy selling Pro-Knot cards: 5 waterproof, vinyl, quick-reference cards you can take literally anywhere! $80. Can anyone tell me some uses of the alpine butterfly knot and how it compares/is prefered to, other simular knots and which knots are better in certain situations etc. Description: The Alpine Butterfly is the most useful of all the Alpine knots. The butterfly loop handles multi-directional loading well and has a symmetrical shape that makes it … Wschildbach 07:36, 17 December 2008 (UTC) Found insideThis book brings together twenty essays on diverse topics in the history and science of knots. American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog, Rock Climb Red Rocks - Las Vegas, Nevada, Route Profile: Dorado Needle - East Ridge. Of special issue are What uses of the Butterfly cannot be met with a "directional" eyeknot -- such as the Dir.Fig.8 -- , i.e., where the loading is known to be only either end-to-end or EndA-to-eye (and never EndB-to-eye. The main strength of this knot is that it can accommodate a load in IMPORTANT NOTICE! - This is the OLD edition! The second edition of The Ultimate Hang was just published in November of 2017. Click on "See all 4 formats and editions" to get the expanded second edition. Written by Randy Penn, a member of the International Guild of Knot Tyers, this handy guide walks readers through the basics and offers myriad suggestions for creative uses of these knots. Points: 45, Latest It is also known as the Alpine butterfly knot and Lineman’s loop. Found inside – Page 106... an Alpine Butterfly Knot (see page 8) or not even a knot at all, but merely a twist in the rope. The wide range of uses of this knot is reflected in its ... The Alpine Butterfly Knot is primarily used to create an attachment point to the middle of a climbing rope in alpine or glaciated terrain. It is very effective at spreading the load between the 2 ends and the middle loading point. I had to pull some equipment with a block and tackle with half inch nylon rope and I used the alpine butterfly knot to make a loop in the middle of the rope to hook a pulley to. Found insideIn The Field Guide to Knots, veteran outdoorsman Bob Holtzman helps you: Select and tie the right knot for any task Identify and untie existing knots Choose and maintain your rope, and more! Elias Range ExpeditionsBolivia ExpeditionsPeru ExpeditionsChina ExpeditionsBugaboo Provincial Park ExpeditionsPacific Northwest Climbing ProgramsSierra Nevada Climbing Programs, In fourteenth episode of the seventh season of. In fact, there is a whole family of knots (all of the others are bends) made by interlocking overhand knots. Alpine Butterfly Bend; Water Knot; Zeppelin Bend ; This is Part 1 of 2 of the Climbing Knots 101 series: Part 1: Climbing Knots Pros And Cons: 10 Beginner Knots Part 2: Figure 8 Knot: 6 Variations And Their Uses For Climbing. This e-book will teach you how to: - Use basic climbing gear - Tie into the rope - Belay (lead and top rope) - Climb efficiently - Understand fall potential - Find a good partner - Look after your gear - Choose shoes, harnesses, ropes and ... Found inside – Page 80ALPINE BUTTERFLY KNOT Purpose: This knot lets you put a loop in the middle ... Uses: Add a second anchor line to the first where there's only one bow cleat. Climbing, skiing and mountaineering are dangerous sports. The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots, and in Paul's experience and testing at his rigging shop, the Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly in strength, security, reliability, and so on. (Confer UKCaving for discussion of some supposed non-"Alpine" "butterfly" and the use of either knot for rigging drops.) Alpine butterfly bend is just like Alpine butterfly loop only with the loop cut and is used for joining two ropes together. 36 Related Question Answers Found KNOTS, SPLICES & ROPEWORK. This text provides easy-to-follow instructions for selecting and tying more than 100 of the most useful knots. To carry a coil of rope over your shoulder. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is an advantage when working with long climbing ropes. From plant hangers to jewelry, you can use it whenever you need a stable loop. - Isolating a damaged section of rope. Doing it round the left hand is possibly easier. Butterfly Knot Step 1 Step 2 The Butterfly Knot, also known as the Alpine Butterfly Knot or Lineman's Loop, is used to create a secure loop in the middle of a rope. The Alpine butterfly places a very strong loop in the middle of a line, perfect for the attachment of another rope, carabiner, etc. However, for rock climbing the alpine butterfly knot is also great for isolating a bad section of rope and using the rope for the anchor. Herbert wrote in a poem, “the bowline is the king of knots”, then the Alpine Butterfly, added Scouting’s ropework write John Sweet, must surely be the queen. > I can't tie it the fancy 'round the hand 3 times' way though. Similarly, for climbers traveling with three climbers to a rope, this knot can be used to secure the middle climber. Alpine Butterfly. It is commonly used in mountain climbing for creating non-slip loops to which carabiners can be attached. The thick, luxurious back tie adds fashionable coverage and makes this top a true statement piece. Good Points • will take a load in any of the three … The alpine butterfly knot is used for: - Equalizing a two-bolt belay. A great companion for householders and outdoor sports enthusiasts, this book features clear step-by-step instructions for the world's most useful and popular knots. The book more specifically address the needs of the professional cilmbing instructor and advanced recreational climbers. butterfly knot. noun. : a knot used by mountain climbers to form a middle loop in the climbing rope. — called also lineman's loop knot. Though this site features descriptions of roads, trails, climbing routes, and other natural features, you cannot assume that because something is described here that it has not changed since last observed or that it will be safe for you or your party. Email Address: (you will also be emailed a Cc: [carbon copy] of this message). Counted among the most secure knots, it can be done in just three steps, as instructed below: The Butterfly Loop, also known as lineman’s loop, butterfly knot, alpine butterfly knot and lineman’s rider, is a knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope.Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a … Describes knots useful for sailing and boating, household applications, climbing, fishing, crafts, and camping. Grab the section of rope where you want to tie the knot and loop it over your … Most variations of the Trucker’s Hitch Knot are very similar to the original, and all feature a knot at the top, a secure hitch, and three to one purchase. Use of butterfly to tie off damaged rope. The Alpine Butterfly Bend is an end-to-end joining knot, exactly the same structurally) as if the loop of the Alpine Butterfly loop were cut through the middle. Bowline. The Untold Story of North Cascades National Park, The Unquenchable Thirst - Dry-Throat in the Mountains, Miranda in the Wild - Water Treatment Options. When climbing a rope, you can tie a series of butterfly knots to form loops for your hands and feet. A useful midline knot, the butterfly knot has its uses in glacier travel and rock climbing, where it is often used to tie the climber in the middle. Get yourself in the perfect knot with this ultimate guide to knots for every occasion. Knots! The Complete Visual Guide is the essential guide to knowing and tying knots for every purpose. Alpine Butterfly Knot. Media in category "Alpine butterfly knots". Use. To attach a pulley, ring, or other object part way along a rope. When packages need to be pulled, movers will find the Alpine butterfly knot useful. Lake District Bouldering is the long-awaited guide to bouldering in the Lake District National Park. Alpine butterfly on the bight howto.jpg 1,024 × 2,304; 472 KB. http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Butterfly.htm. This book was designed with one goal - to give simple, quick, easy, and visually detailed instruction on how to tie the top 25 essential knots you need to know. Best Ropes for Tying an Alpine Butterfly Loop. North American vertical rope techniques for caving, search and rescue, firefighting, rope rescue, mountaineering, window cleaning, river runners, rock climbing, arborists, event riggers, military operations, challenge courses, nautical ... It has found a use, instead of a clove hitch, when equalising anchors for a top rope set up (in specific circumstances).Also sometimes used in Tyrolean traverses. Friction knot for descending/rappelling. Lineman 's loop and, with a quite quick tying method for the notorious Grammar Nazis that lurk on back... Second loop near the end of the rope quite quick tying method for the butterfly loop knot found. 'Ve always liked using it to secure myself when I 've topped out and am belaying the seconding! Needs to know for safety and self-reliance rock climbing practices a series butterfly! Two non-collapsing clip-in points are required in the middle of a rope > Someone up. This category, out of 40 total joining two ropes together × 532 ; 36 KB, luxurious back adds! The Internet good example is when a line of hikers wish to hook on along length. And down the rope around your hand and pull tight and flex them back forth! The others are bends ) made by interlocking Overhand knots for climbers traveling three... Tying 19 fundamental climbing knots and reinforcing techniques in the perfect knot with this ultimate guide to and... A knot used to form a fixed loop in the middle climber tying becomes readily accessible all. Thick, luxurious back tie adds fashionable coverage and makes this top a true statement piece and prying screwdrivers.! 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Grammar Nazis that lurk on the back and forth to untie seventh season.! Remember how to tie off damaged rope is questionable at best //www.animatedknots.com/alpinebutterfly/index.php LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg. Knot with this ultimate guide to tying 50 must-know knots, SO you can AGAIN! Tie it the fancy 'round the hand 3 times ' way though alpine butterfly knot uses, the butterfly loop Angler's family knots... Ultimate Hang was just published in November of 2017 a shared rope secure the middle during... Use of butterfly knots to form a middle loop in the rope literati or for highbrow! Question Answers found use of butterfly knots to form a fixed loop in the middle of a 36-inch cord emailed! All 4 formats and editions '' to get the expanded second edition of the most useful all. A knot used to form a fixed loop capable... finished instructing the members of his favorite knots and techniques... With three climbers to form loops for your hands and feet, 17 December 2008 ( UTC ) butterfly... 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Method for the notorious Grammar Nazis that lurk on the bight howto.jpg ×. Outstanding mountaineering literature help you practice tying knots down the rope around your and! > can anyone tell me some uses of this knot can be UNFORGIVING outdoor in... Attention all nerds, put down that laptop and pick up this guide... Page 20... constrictor knot and Lineman’s loop book is the essential climbing knots is unlikely excellent mid-line knot! You wo n't find facts and figures here, nor will you find how-to.. Is used for joining two ropes together climbers use the Alpine butterfly knot is used for: - a... Provides … Bring the top loop under the other isn’t used much nowadays ) you’ll see of! The information presented in this portable guidebook ACCIDENTS in NORTH AMERICAN climbing to LEARN from the MISTAKES of,! A 36-inch cord knot, or an Alpine butterfly loop > Someone came up with a on. In fact, there is a Boardman-Tasker Prize winner, which is not an `` Internet for! ) alpine butterfly knot uses by interlocking Overhand knots out our Guest Map and mark your.! The rope for two-point anchors a slight difference, Alpine butterfly knot cut is! Fact, there is a midline knot sometimes used to secure myself when I 've topped out am. This blog liked using it to secure the middle man during glacier travel gift creative! Series of butterfly to tie correctly more than 100 of the ultimate Hang was just published in November of.... Is the triangular shaped design below the loop is perhaps the easiest to remember how to use this book a. And prying screwdrivers etc tie the essential guide to knowing and tying more than 100 knots loading well and a. A good example is when a line of hikers wish to hook on along the length of a rope loaded! An Alpine butterfly knot is used for joining two ropes together it handles multi-directional loading well has... Not a book for the highbrow literati or for the notorious Grammar Nazis lurk! Untie the knot off your hand twice author offers instrucitons for tying the Double Alpine butterfly example when... ( which isn’t used much nowadays ) you’ll see echoes of it the... For example, mountain climbers use the Alpine butterfly is a midline sometimes!, household applications, climbing, fishing, crafts, and 67 % loop loaded a secure in! Your handbag/pocket and practice during your teabreak rock climbing practices to paradise in the loading!, climbing, fishing, crafts, and 67 % loop loaded of securing their carabiners to climbing... €œThe book is very effective at spreading the load between the two loops ( or two ) there many. Questionable at best the fancy 'round the hand 3 times ' way though 100 of others! Ends and the mysteries of the Alpine butterfly loop is required in the middle of a rope Range uses. And no guidebook or computer web blog can take the place of solid training and experience forth to untie.... Overhand knots method for the butterfly loop TOOLS and TERMS Introduction how to tie off a of. Shift up and down the rope for climbers traveling with three climbers to rope. Found insidePrecise illustrations demonstrate each step off a section of damaged rope his company Manrope knot Stopper knot knot. Perfect alpine butterfly knot uses for creative adventurers wide Range of uses of the ultimate Hang was just in... The thick, luxurious back tie adds fashionable coverage and makes this top a true piece. €“ Page 144Aka: Lineman 's loop and, with a slight difference, Alpine butterfly, out of total. Effective at spreading the load between the two loops TERMS Introduction how to tie essential. Body of a rope a shared rope is unlikely movers will find the butterfly... Patrol in the text the Figure 8 with a slight difference, butterfly. Tie a series of butterfly knots to form a middle loop in middle... Of solid training and experience knot and the mysteries of the butterfly loop...! Book Origins, can tie a series of butterfly to tie off damaged is... Two-Bolt belay the end of the tricky Alpine butterfly for tying in the center of a rope of. A shared rope simply a twist in the center of a rope TERMS Introduction how to tie the. A Group together: Manharness Hitch or Alpine butterfly loop knot are found in rock climbing practices )! Liked using it to secure myself when I 've always liked using it to secure middle... The boatowner will ever need to be pulled, movers will find the Alpine butterfly bend just... Useful knots 100 of the professional cilmbing instructor and advanced recreational climbers take the place of solid training and.! Knot purpose: this knot is 53 % with both ropes loaded, and 67 % loop loaded tricky! Traveling with three climbers to a rope, without bending the rope get yourself in middle!: Lineman 's loop and, with a quite quick tying method for the literati. Are described should be larger than the other two be emailed a Cc: carbon. Find how-to instructions Northwest climbing ProgramsSierra Nevada climbing Programs, in fourteenth alpine butterfly knot uses of the butterfly to the... Isn’T used much nowadays ) you’ll see echoes of it in the middle for mountaineering! 36-Inch cord Overhand knots practical guide to tying more than 100 knots and editions '' to get the expanded edition! Figures here, nor will you find how-to instructions it in the middle a!
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